Ready, Get Set, React
Unless you find your new algae bloom a welcome addition to your pond, you will want to get rid of it as soon as possible. Algaecides like and are great products to eliminate existing algae blooms. If you have trout, or goldfish in your pond, you will want to use a non-copper based product like to do the job. While these products address the current outbreak in your pond, they will not treat the source of the issue or prevent future occurrences and they require repetitive treatments. Even after the algae bloom is killed, you will still have to do some legwork in terms of removing dead plant matter. Leaving dead algae in your pond will only hinder your quest for a clear pond by providing even more algae food in the form of decaying plant matter. For these reasons, using chemical applications to fight algae is referred to as a reactive approach.
Pond Chemicals | Grasshopper Gardens
Some states restrict a variety of pond chemicals. You need to contact your local DNR to see what they allow in your area. We cannot be responsible for chemicals restricted in your state. Some states require you to be a licensed applicator. In that case, we may need to have a copy of your applicator's license on file before we can ship the product(s) to you.
Grasshopper Gardens is your source for high quality pond chemicals
Use our pond chart below to find out what pond chemical to use to kill a variety of pond weeds, water lilies, cattails, algae, coontail, water milfoil, bladderwort, hydrilla, elodea, watermeal, brittle naiads and others in the pond weed family.
Our pond chemicals will keep your pond looking great
Well, chemical treatments have their benefits and drawbacks: On one hand, they work great as a quick fix to decimate actively growing weeds. But once those plants die, they become a food source for future weeds and algae, acting as a fertilizer for the very things you’re trying to get rid of. The herbicides do nothing to prevent future growth, and so you’re left with yet another growth spurt of pond weeds, which you’ll then treat with chemical herbicides – and around you’ll go again.Another major consideration for creating good water quality in the pond is one that is properly constructed. A pond should have about 40% of its surface area for the deep zone, which should be at least two feet for a water garden and three feet or more for a koi pond. Thirty percent should be an intermediate depth of 1-1/2 to 2 feet and the remaining 30% at least 1 to 1-1/2 feet deep. A slight slope to the deepest level allows for easier removal of debris from the pond [ ]. A is highly recommended as it can remove up to 85% of debris before it sinks. The pond should be constructed so that rainwater does not flow over the yard and into the pond. This is one of the more common causes of algae in the pond. Rain runoff carries with it lots of organic debris that contain nutrients that feed the algae. Also fertilizer or chemicals could be carried into the pond causing problems. If your pond is already constructed you cannot do much about the depths of the pond but you can alter the area around the pond to make sure that runoff does not flow into it.