are drafts mainly a concern with chicks

The original design for my open air style chicken coop called for welded fence wire on 3 sides, and solid tin on the west facing side (towards the road). It is supposed to be VERY simple, but functional for our warm climate. I modified it slightly by adding one piece of tin sideways along the bottom (approx 2' high) instead of using hardware cloth for predator reach-through protection. I read that it would help keep more water out to use the tin instead of wire - and it seems to work!

Feb 15, 2009 - I have been spending the winter reading up on raising chickens and coop designs

We added a prop to hold the roof open, which I will show you how to build later on. And, we added a little hook to the side of the laying box so he can hang his basket up while he gathers his eggs. It’s hard for a little boy (or anyone for that matter) to hold a basket and put the eggs in too. This little hook will save us a lot of cracked eggs.Another item on our priority list is making the coop easy to clean. So when we were designing the plans for our coop, we decided to have one whole side fold down.Let me tell you from experience, there is nothing worse than having to basically climb in the coop to get it clean. With the side folded down, we can easily scoop all the yucky stuff out of the coop and laying box without getting too deep into it.Since the side folds down, we had to also build our coop up off the ground a little bit. This is good to keep water, bugs and critters out of the coop that shouldn’t be in there. Plus, the chickens don’t seem to mind. They like hanging out in the shade under the coop, and spend most of their day under there.We left a little space under the eaves to allow for air circulation. That way the coop won’t be too hot and stuffy for the chickens all summer.

Chicken Coops That Work: 5 Brilliant Ways - Abundant Permaculture

In this article, I'll explain the basic characteristics needed for chicken coops and .. We Build Custom Chicken Coops in all sizes and configurations Featured here is a medium/large Stationary Chicken Coop it is 7ft long x 6ft wide x 7 ft tall. Coop is open air free range design Features 5 nest boxes with exterior egg collection, fair weather perch, up grades include mobility kit, and an additional run is available.

Open Air Coop - designed and used in cold climates

I chose the Prince T Woods (a special thanks to all those who made Woods Style postings too!!) open air style as healthy air circulation is a must here especially in our (sometimes 8-9 months!!!) long rainy "season" ( we are on what is known as the WE(s)T side of Oregon). The open air coop that Woods promoted was used throughout the nation and Canada in the early 1900's. (Maybe not as much in the Deep South, although Dr. Woods gives examples of suitable coops for that region in his book as well) It worked well even in the rainy NW as I discovered references to the style in old poultry books from Oregon and California from that time period. The main point is that the proper ventilation, (not heating the coop, which virtually nobody did back then anyway) was the key to having a healthy chicken flock. His book really explains how it works a lot better than I can, but I did a rough sketch just to illustrate the air displacement that occurs in this design.

Barn ~ Chicken Coop look at the little doors!!

Open-air poultry coops were designed in the 1800s and popularized by Prince T. Woods’ 1912 “Open-Air Poultry Houses for All Climates: A Practical Book on Modern Common Sense Poultry Housing for Beginners and Veterans in Poultry Keeping. What to Build and How to Do It. Houses That Will Promote Heath, Vigor, and Vitality in Breeding and Laying Stock,” which is . Then, as now, chicken keepers recognized the benefits of fresh air but were concerned about frostbite and precipitation.To see some of the extreme climates where people are successfully keeping chickens in our open-air designs, and for information on preparing your chicken coop and flock for the winter, see the at our blog, .